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Stiles and rails
Stiles and rails







Stock between 11/16" and 7/8 " will usually work. Most of these bits are designed to work best with 3/4" thick stock. Stock thickness is also a big consideration. Any bow or twist in the stock will result in noticeable variations in the profile and joinery cuts. It's very important to make sure it's all perfectly flat, straight, and a consistent thickness. The first step is to mill your stock for the frames. I've included an example of each and an explanation of how they work.Īfter choosing a set of bits, there are a few things you'll need to take care of before routing the door frames. These bits cut both the rail and stile profiles by either reversing the cutters or you simply change the bit's height. Common Rail & Stile Bit OptionsĪs an alternative to the two-bit set, several manufacturers also offer a single-bit option. From a simple bevel to a an ornate French provincial profile, you can find a set to suit just about any style of cabinet door. The drawings below show a sampling of the profiles commonly available. The slot cutter and bearing are attached to the arbor with a nut. On both bits, the profile cutter is integral to the shank. As you can see in the photos, each bit mirrors the other and the two fit together precisely. But unless you're running a production cabinet shop, you can probably get a lifetime of service from these bits. These sets can be a bit pricey, usually running anywhere from $80 to $100 for a set. Since the bits are precisely machined to match, you're almost guaranteed a perfect fit. A matching rail bit cuts a coped profile and a stub tenon on the ends of the rails. A stile bit cuts the profile and the groove for the panel in the edge of each of the frame pieces. Fortunately, you can accomplish the same result by using a set of matched router bits.Ī set of rail and stile cutters (often referred to as "cope and stick" bits) can take care of the joinery and the decorative profile in one operation. But creating it at the router table and then cutting the joinery separately adds several steps to the building process. The only downside is the straight profile of the frame can be a bit, well, boring.Īdding a routed profile to the inside edge of the frame gives a more professional, finished look. And simple stub tenon and groove joinery provides plenty of strength for this application. A hardwood frame surrounding a hardwood or plywood panel provides a lightweight and stable door. So before building the doors you'll need to consider the design and joinery options.įrame and panel construction is a common solution. But they also need to be strong enough to handle years of use. It's no secret that a well-built cabinet needs doors that complement the overall style of the project.









Stiles and rails